This month I was on a mission of foodstuff reconnoitre with a lovely and sophisticated troop of theatre patrons from Boulder. The group’s leader wisely requested a stop at Eataly, described by part owner Mario Batali as “a grocery store with tasting rooms”. And I trust Batali as he’s a West Villager, responsible for introducing me, if indirectly, to amaro, and his son plays basketball with my friend Javi’s little brother for team-Little Red Schoolhouse. The other proprietors are Lidia Bastianich and son Joe; she’s my all time favorite celebrity chef based on genre (strictly Italian) and knowledge of subject. I have two of her books—one signed—and have frequented restaurants Felidia—I still have that gift card I need to use—and Becco on restaurant row, not far from the other “Row”, the recently renovated, incredibly central hotel where the group was cozily accommodated.
The roots of Eataly, however, reach across the pond to the northern Italian city of Turin. There’s a joke somewhere in here about something being shrouded in mystery but quite frankly, it’s Monday. The original Eataly inhabits a converted vermouth factory while the largest European outpost occupies an abandoned air terminal in Rome. Obviously, there are a few locations in Tokyo—hashtag, obsessed with Western food—and a 20 million dollar megastore in Chicago.
Why this sudden talk of edibles when I’m usually chattering on about Marty McDonagh or the new Ayad Akhtar play? Well, actors have to eat, despite some disturbingly thin silhouettes as of late. Also, two current happenings are palette-teasing the under-explored relationship between food and art and have me salivating into my decaf cappuccino.
One of my truly talented friends—and I don’t say that lightly, because G-d knows, I humor most of you—Max Davis, has been working with nonprofit Café Nordo, dedicated to “new and innovative storytelling that strives to push the boundaries of theatre by integrating the culinary, performing, and visual arts.” What in Adele Dazeem does that mean? Well, I can tell you this, they combine two of my favorite things: theatre and food—and I can’t stop drooling over either. I had the absolute pleasure of working with Max on two projects; one was an Off Broadway workshop at Classic Stage Company, born out of the Tony Award Winning Williamstown Theater Festival. But most striking, is recall of a production that Max rightly guided me toward as an audience member—a theater piece where I sat on the floor, picnic-style, in a SoHo loft, and was served up both culinary delights and some startling drama, chock-full of love and intrigue. Best, I’d say, is that the food did not merely accompany the production—this was no dinner theater—but rather, delectibles were thoroughly woven into the narrative. And while I have never once promoted a kickstarter campaign on this blog, I feel an obligation to direct the culinarily curious toward the group’s call for support to turn former Elliott Bay Book Company building in Seattle into a new home for their delightfully “non-kosher” antics.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/950413761/nordos-culinarium-where-food-meets-art?ref=email
“When I see something beautiful, I want to eat it.” —Margaret Braun
The above extract could not be more true for me; I unashamedly admit my palette wavers between international sophisticate and four-year-old at the county fair. One thing for sure, if I can at all manage to escape the humdrum of my microcosmic universe this fall, it will be to join the Cakewalk—more like a food fueled jaunt—through Le Marche, Italy, with friend and renowned sugar artist, Margaret Braun. Her passion for food, architecture and beautiful authentic locales is unparalleled. Remember the SATs?
Cooking class in Tuscany is to Cakewalk in Le Marche as rear orchestra seat is to sitting on Kristin Chenoweth’s lap during the eleven o’clock number.
Small local artisans to chic Urbino to rural farmhouse to—oh, did I mention it’s white truffle season? And as a writer, you know I abhor spoilers, but let’s just say the rarity of a home cooked Italian meal isn’t exactly off the table here. Check out the details of this transformative and soul nourishing experience below:
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